Where Jacobs' skirt shapes of marc jacobs preceding seasons

An adoring public can be a fickle marc jacobs sale thing, as golden boys from Tony Blair to David Beckham have discovered. Marc Jacobs, the fashion industry's favourite designer, learned this lesson at New York marc jacobs fashion week this week.Catwalk audiences are used to waiting. The promenading of celebrities is part and parcel of the fashion week ritual. But Jacobs may have pushed his luck just a little too far. When his special guest, the singer Beyoncé, finally emerged from backstage to take her front-row seat at 10.30pm, 90 minutes after the show had been due to begin agcpimtyfl, she was roundly booed.This, at New York fashion week, where celebrity is so worshipped that Jennifer Lopez has been awarded the coveted closing spot for her debut marc jacobs 2011 fashion show agczimtyfl, is tantamount to heresy.

But the late start was not necessarily Beyonce's fault, and indeed marc jacobs handbags gave an apologetic shrug at the end.Either way, it was a somewhat grumpy audience who were greeted with Jacobs' new silhouette: skirts belted at the waist and ballooning into a graceless bulk before ending abruptly at mid-calf.Where Jacobs' skirt shapes of marc jacobs preceding seasons have been coquettishly pretty - last season, a cute abbreviated prom-skirt shape like an upended martini marc jacobs glass; before that a knee-length skirt as slim and curvy as a champagne flute - this had the elegance of a tankard of beer.In heavy wool, worn with socks and flat shoes, it made catwalk models look dumpy.Perhaps the public will, in time, warm to it. It is a hazard of being a trendsetter, as Jacobs undoubtedly is, that new looks can appear strange, even ugly, at first. When Jacobs created grunge 10 years ago,the marc jacobs shoes fashion world was first horrified, but then fell in love.

But this collection's mix of grunge-era shapes (long skirts, too-short trousers) with marc jacobs purses Camden market fabrics (purple suede, second-hand coat tweed) seemed neither lovable nor wearable. The eveningwear - stiff, voluminous printed floral silk cocktail marc jacobs dresses - looked forced, without the insouciance which Jacobs brought to his Louis Vuitton and own-name collections last season.There were gems, however: graphic-printed silk crepe marc jacobs dresses, in simple outlines with abstract blocks of colour, were beautiful. Pretty blouses and simple, long marc jacobs dresses in rose pink velvet or teal satin will also be sure to keep Jacobs' many devotees shopping next season.The British designer Matthew Williamson, who now shows in New York, is best known for Ibiza-inspired, Tinkerbell-weight party marc jacobs dresses. Yesterday's collection of autumn/winter clothes showed a richer, more sophisticated aspect of his marc jacobs boots, as much about texture and layering as colour and dazzle.

On the one hand you have models in Latex polka dot marc jacobs wallets stomping past giant padded shiny pillars to Marilyn Manson's The Beautiful People at Marc Jacobs, while on the other you have cashmere pleated excellence at Victoria Beckham (eye rollers: what is wrong with a woman having two successful careers, hmm?). But on balance the British duo behind Preen pulled away from the field showing a gorgeous craft-inspired meets masculine tailoring marc jacobs meets couture collection. So beautiful that it knocked the proverbial socks off the mulberry handbags audience.

Evening marc jacobs dresses were spare and chic enough for the most discerning Greek (or Ibizan) goddess, in velvet and pleated silk crisscrossed with ribbon, or in peacock-hued empire-line silk. A plush mushroom wool jacket with a tie belt was encrusted in delicate paisley embroidery, perfect with a flimsy blouse and flowing marc jacobs trousers. It was a collection to impress commercially minded New Yorkers as much as London's boho marc jacobs princesses.What to look out for in the shops for autumn and winter 2005,Fashion is having a Bridget Jones moment. The most unlikely trend of the catwalk season so far has seen Cosabella thongs replaced by industrial-strength girdles as the lingerie to be seen in Proenza Schouler, Anna Wintour's protegees and therefore darlings of the New York marc jacobs fashion crowd, are known for their waif-like silhouettes. Helpfully, this season, they have come up with a way for women to achieve the look. Above the waistband of pencil marc jacobs skirts, 15cm of ribbed girdle was visible, pulled up high over a bustier top.At DKNY, Donna Karan explored a similar theme. A tobacco silk day marc jacobs outlet was cinched with a wide corset belt in gold leather, pulled tight with silver laces.